The 2018 Branco O Fugitivo em Curtimenta is an unoaked and very dry field blend (grapes like Encruzado, Uva-Cão, Bical, Terrantez, and so on) from old vines. It was aged for 12 months in used French oak and comes in at 12.6% alcohol. The important thing about this wine, however, is that "Curtimenta" designation, which references skin contact. This had contact with stems and skins for one month. As a skin-contact orange wine, it is surprisingly graceful. It has plenty of power and grip on the finish—they all do—plus a bright demeanor and succulent finish, but it is also rather elegant. This is something that you can actually drink, with the proper food pairing. It isn't just for show. It may age rather well too. Let's start here and take that in stages. Tip: This isn't a white you want to drink all that cold. It will do better closer to 60 degrees Fahrenheit than 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Score: 93/100